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Archive for May, 2008

Day Eight – How to Cook an Enchilada (21 feet underground)

Friday, May 30th, 2008

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Oh the painfully pleasant pace of bikes rolling along the plains of Montana. My mind is engulfed with thoughts about the natural environment, current civilizations, and the future of the two. Alright, you caught me. I am of course singing Bob Marley hits, ignoring a squeaky wheel, and fantasizing about the pack of beef jerky strapped to my glorious steed. But hey, I’ve done enough of that for the both of us, so I’ll elaborate on more useful memories.

We set out from the town of Roundup by mid-day, unsure what this new phenomena called ‘sunshine’ really was. We reacted appropriately – by stashing our arsenal of rain-gear far away from the bodies they shielded while shouting WRFI tribal chants (a.k.a. Latino-Ariba-calls-mixed-with-your-local-football-fan’s-wooting). The ride was blessed with good roads, nice weather, friendly commuters, and student thighs evolving to mountain-goat strength. After several hours of beautiful rolling hills we arrived to the welcoming shelter of the Wallace’s (which we will be forever grateful for; thanks for the ridiculously amazing breakfast !). The humble abode of the Wallace’s presides near the town of Ryegate; but more interestingly it presides 21 feet below ground. Furthermore, they have powered the music and lights helping us cook our tasty enchiladas with completely renewable energy. In fact, the combination of a wind-powered generator (1,000 watts) and solar-panel collection (1,200 watts) brought the Wallace’s entire electric bill to the miniscule sum of $17 (mostly as a result of recent utility price increases). Impractical on a large-scale you say? Oh my friend, there has never been a time that is more practical.

World electricity generation reached 18.5 trillion kilowatt hours in 2006. Two-thirds of this came from fossil fuels (40% from coal / 6% from oil / 20% from natural gas respectively), another 15% from nuclear power, 16% from hydro-power and 2% from other renewables. This plethora of production not only perpetuates environmental degradation and increases CO2 emissions, it is the villain that is heavily taxing our wallet by depriving you of the many benefits of efficiency.

Lightbulbs. Replacing your old inefficient incandescent lightbulb with new compact fluorescents (CFLs) can reduce electricity use by 3/4ths. This is one of the central areas that hold great potential for improvement (640 million of the 650 million lightbulbs sold in the United States annually are the old inefficient incandescent type).

Appliances. Keep the fridge, but for heavens sake unplug the computer when not in use. Over 10% of the world’s electricity consumption occurs in such stand-by modes. Seeking out energy efficient appliencies will pay off, for every $1 you invest in more efficient appliances, around $4 is saved on your electricity and gas bill over time.

THUS, my friends, mis amigos, mes amis. Now is a time when we can implement tax incentives for reducied electricity use such as optional electricity use during peak hours. A good time to retrofit old buildings to utilize immense cost-saving green techologies (high as 50% improvement). A great time to justify electrifying railroads as climate change charges forth and oil prices soar. An even better time to abolish non-essential industries like bottled water that withdraws 50 billion barrels of oil a year. Fossil fuels can become a great alternative, one that can fill gaps only in the worst of times. Its not a leap back, but a step forward, and a simple one at that. As the poetic philosopher Avril Lavigne said “why’s it have to be so complicated?”

Cory Zyla, University of British Columbia

Day Seven – Roundup: Different Frames of Mind

Friday, May 30th, 2008

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“Wake up everyone! It’s time for eggs and sausage with Roberta!” I smiled to myself. It was the best wake-up call yet this trip. Instead of remaining in my sleeping bag, gathering the courage to subject myself to the teeth-chattering, hair-raising morning cold as I had every other morning, I was up out of bed and dressed within minutes. Today was the day we would receive a home cooked meal from Roberta, a retired K-6 teacher who now works on grants for the school district, her husband Dave, a retired math teacher and football coach, and their two neighbors, Ron and Maria (who had to join in on the hospitality after hearing about our arrival).

When we arrived, Roberta was outside and waiting. Were we happy to see her! After seven days of camping, seventy miles of biking, three days without a shower, and daily breakfasts consisting of a mixture of dried fruits, powerbars and instant oatmeal, our group of thirteen was ready and salivating for the comforts of home that these kind people had to offer.

After being generously fed and bathed, we began probing our new friends. They regaled us with stories of their lives and spoke with nostalgia of the town that Roundup once was. “It wasn’t always like this,” Roberta commented shaking her head. “The town’s a little depressed, as you can see,” added Dave with a hint of sadness, “all the young people have moved out, the older folk are passing away and there aren’t jobs available for the people that remain.”

Alan Olson, a proud resident of Roundup and a 12-year employee of Halliburton, who serves in the state legislature, currently is running for public service commissioner, and who has worked in the coal industry for most of his adult life, explained to us later that day that “Roundup is a city that has been burned.” It has been burned by the coal and oil industries that moved in and out of Roundup causing great economic boom upon entering and devastation and depression upon exiting. Alan, a proponent of the coal mines, however, wouldn’t blame the coal industry, but instead wants to do everything in his power to get them back and return the town to the economic and financial prosperity it once had. When asked about other forms of alternative energy that wouldn’t produce CO2 emissions and release other toxic chemicals into the air, Alan replied, “There are economics to everything and it drives the bus.” He believes the only way to financial prosperity in the immediate future is to rely on fossil fuels to provide the energy that the world is currently demanding. He adds, “How much are you willing to pay in order to bet something [global warming] might not happen?”

Wilber Wood, also a resident of Roundup and one of the founders of AERO (Alternative Energy Resources Organization) sees the issues differently. He asks, “How willing are we to bet on our health, livelihood and future as a species if we don’t act now to use clean energy?” Not unlike Alan, Wilber is concerned about his town of Roundup, the state of Montana, and the financial obstacles that lie ahead for these residents. However, he believes, as he outlines in Repowering Montana: A Blueprint for Home Grown Energy Self-Reliance, “an orderly transition to clean, renewable, sustainable energy economy ultimately will be less expensive for Montana consumers and will ultimately create more jobs.” He adds, “The barriers are not technological. The barriers are not institutional. The barriers are old fashioned economics and old fashioned politics.” “We have to stop looking for some big thing [coal mine, the oil industry] to save us, we need to save ourselves.”

That got me thinking. Wilber cares greatly for the town of Roundup, so much so that he has been fighting to save it for thirty plus years. Alan is no different. I will never forget the look on his face as he said, “This community deserves something… just look at it.” I think Roberta, Dave, Ron and Maria would agree. All these people just want to do the best they know how in order to save and protect the things they love. What we need to do now is find a way we can all get there together.

Lauren Green, graduate of the University of San Diego

Day Six – Looking Forward to Eggs and Sausage

Wednesday, May 28th, 2008

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Today was a sad day and an exciting day. It was sad because we said goodbye to the Charter Ranch and Ed Gulick; it was an exciting day because a kind woman invited us to a breakfast of eggs and sausage at her private home in Roundup. After having oatmeal for six mornings this invitation was like music to my ears. I immediately thought about how much sausage I was going to eat.

As we rose at 7:30 AM to a cloudy sky, high winds and low temps people started packing up their belongings. Amidst a frenzy of packing and cleaning we all tried to have a few last words with the three generations of Charters that had welcomed us for two nights. Bikes were packed and the house clean and it seemed the time to leave had come all too quickly. Ressa Charter read a farewell passage taken from Out of Africa: No One Can Leave Without a Blessing. This passage exemplified the Charters sentiment: We feel blessed to have you at our home; we hope you feel blessed and we would like you to bless our land. The Charters and our group shared some emotions, the instructors bid farewell until next year, and the students said goodbye hoping to see the wonderful Charter family again.

As we started pedaling Ed Gulick went south in style and we headed north to Roundup. It was very sad to see one of the peas of our pod leave, however I feel confident many of us will cross paths with Ed Gulick in the future. After several miles of riding I noticed the group had stopped ahead. As I approached I realized Phil had a flat tire on his trailer. I could not help but laugh at this situation, a Burley flat. Burley being the brand of trailer Phil was pulling. In addition to the Burley flat oxymoron I found it funny that Phil was the first student to get a flat because he had so much pride in his trailer he sported a ‘I love my Burley’ flag, which did serve as a visual aid for cars as well. It turns out this was not the only humorous situation on our bike trip.

After lunch we had a mostly downhill ride. Once we got out of the Bull Mountains and back onto 87 North we passed a road called Johnny Coal Road. Johnny Appleseed quickly popped in my head. I had a good laugh at the disparity between Johnny Appleseed as a conservationist spreading apple trees across the Midwest and the fictional Johnny Coal spreading coal around the country.

Thirty miles from the Charter Ranch we arrived in Roundup, Montana; we were hungry, cold and a little wet. After a hasty camp setup we sat down for a class discussion about the environmental, economical and ethical aspects of carbon sequestration.

The class discussion was winding down and Roberta arrived at the picnic table carrying the Billings Gazette. She had read about us in the Billings newspaper (the Gazette) and had come to offer us showers and a hot breakfast and we gladly accepted the invite.

I cannot express the feeling when a stranger extends themselves to such a unique group that is studying issues that are so controversial, especially in Central Montana, a region so rich in coal.

As I prepare for bed on a chilly Tuesday evening I cannot help but anticipate what adventures lie on the road ahead.

Stephen Brown, University of Montana

Day Five – Thoughts on Land and Life

Tuesday, May 27th, 2008

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Home of the prairie dog in the Northern Plains of Montana, we awoke on the ranch of Steve and Jeanne Charter this morning. I scampered up atop a grassy knoll to get a proper view of this Big Sky I’ve heard so much about. It indeed is a large sky, and a vast stretch of plains laid out all around, interrupted only by the underground home of the Charter’s and our bike and tent village.

My experiences are from the coasts of this country. I have only known a lifestyle where people truly live in connection to the land and the sea through commercial fishing. How unique it is I’ve always thought to know people who understand these natural processes with a direct connection to their natural environment. But my first time on the ranch, I see that a rancher is a fisherman of the land. They understand this land, details us from away can only read or study in the name of science. This country seems so much more comprehensible all of a sudden, connecting such basic fundamentals as food and land and the people of these lands.

Today was well rounded, in an attempted partial return of the Charter’s awesome hospitality and generosity we painted and plumbed a bit for them around the ranch. The afternoon held a thoughtful discussion in dealings with coal, tar sands and our fossil fuel loving lifestyles. Steve and Jeanne filled us with personal insight into their fight against big coal development, and protection of their ranching way of life. It was the expertise of a guest lecturer from a university course, except we came to them, their home and their lives.

I got thinking about my current life, living in a college town where people’s jobs, lives and daily interactions are not ruled by the land or environment, but instead by the inside of buildings or industry or academia. Is this not how workers can intertwine their values with the cause of the corporation, and disregard community’s people and environments they effect with their of their actions. The Charter’s issues effect all of us, we are all facing these issues of coal and fossil fuel development. Is the difference that they see the upfront damage and effects first only so we can see the full extent of the externalities from pollution and climate change later on in the limitless future.

Devin Trainor, Humboldt State University

Day Four – On Our Way

Monday, May 26th, 2008

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I slowly opened up my eyes and lay quietly in my sleeping bag, staring at the gray ceiling of my tent. Puzzled and a little displeased at my newly awakened state, I rolled over, prepared to go back to sleep. Then, I remembered that today was a special day. Today was the day that the Cycle the Rockies students had all been waiting for. D-day, and a day of reckoning. Today, I thought, a smile spreading across my face, we ride.

Our third and final morning staying at the KOA in Billings was filled with excited and frenzied packing. Putting clothes and food into my bags I felt overwhelmed by the amount of gear I would need to sustain me and my bicycle for the next month. Every item weighed heavy in my hands. I eyed the Tom Robbins book I had decided to bring with acute suspicion. After we finished breaking camp, and had a thorough bike safety talk from Dave and Nicky, we practiced riding with all of our gear, getting a feel for pulling pounds of extra weight by bike. Weaving in and out of camp-sites, our trailers and rear panniers wobbling in our wakes, we made our final adjustments and headed out.

We road the short distance from the KOA into Billings to gorge ourselves on our recently acquired bounty from the the Good Earth Market (Billings’ food co-op) in the sunny side-yard of Ed Gulick. After lunch, we followed Ed on our way out of the city, and to our first riding challenge of the trip; cycling up a long and steep incline toward the Rimrocks and the bike path that would lead us to the ranch of Jeanne and Steve Charter, our final destination for the day. As cycled up the hill, I quickly found the need to down shift into my lowest gear. My thighs skipped the burn and went straight to cramping with the the effort of pushing myself up the steep incline. What am I getting myself into? I moaned to myself as the handful of M & Ms that I had eaten at lunch threatened to make a reappearance.

But my fears of inadequate physical conditioning soon abated, as I was entranced by the view of the city from the Rimrocks. Amid merrily waving grasses and prickly pear cactus, Billings lay spread before me like a visual capstone of the activities from the past few days. Picking out the sites we had visited during our stay, I tried to wrap my head around the whirlwind of coal, oil and green-building issues that I had discovered in my short stay here. Soon, it was time to get on the road again. We officially said farewell to Billings and headed north.

Highway 87, our path to the Charter ranch, gave us our first taste for the open road. Riding in two groups paced a couple minutes apart so that the over-sized rigs and semi-trucks whipping past at 80 miles a hour could pass us with relative safety, we cycled through grassy plains; the sun breaking through the gray cloud-cover made the landscape glow and shimmer.

img_0070.JPGTwenty-five (surprisingly) quick miles later, we took a left off of the highway into the Charter driveway. After setting up our tents in a pasture behind the Charter house and a delicious dinner, we basked in the warm red glow of the Charter’s living room and chatted with Steve, Jeanne, and Anne (or Grandma Green, as she introduced herself as), Steve’s mother. Our topics ranged far and wide, covering time-controlled grazing, fighting coal mining in Eastern Montana, the creation of the Northern Plains Resource Council, and the relocalization of energy production and food systems.

As the hour got later the conversation slowed everyone headed off for bed. My muscles were a little sore, my mind a little tired, but I was beginning to figure out what I was getting myself into, and I was happy about it too.

Leora Stein, Whitman College

Day Three – Euphoric

Saturday, May 24th, 2008

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Euphoric.

That is the best word to describe today. Through rain, wet feet, great food, cold hands, stranger’s friendly waves and afternoon exhaustion, I came away euphoric.

For three years as an architecture student I have been striving and struggling to design as comprehensive a green building as the Northernday-3-2.JPG Plains Resource Council [NPRC] – struggling even though my work is academic and never gets built. Even at a progressive school that prides itself on environmentally conscious design- green practices are constricted by concerns about money, construction difficulty, codes, liability, and client concerns. Ed Gulick of High Plains Architects gets around these concerns- way around. I’ve gone looking for great green buildings and have never seen anything like the NPRC. And I’ve never met an architect like Ed.

We met him yesterday when he biked out to our campsite to say hello. None of us had met Ed, yet he was willing to give tours and slide shows all day long and invite us to his home for dinner. Ed doesn’t own a car or a detectable ego. After grad school he came back to Billings to influence the way buildings were being built in a town where energy and carbon drives the economy. With three oil refineries and a coal plant in Billings, it is remarkable what an impact Ed and his contemporaries have made. He says about fossil fuel, “We’re using our one time gift” and he is making a difference using less of it. The NPRC- a project he managed uses about a fifth of the energy of a typical building, along with remarkable water savings and improved indoor air quality.

Buildings use 38-48% of the energy consumed in the U.S. Ed’s four step design process could change that. Three quarters of the built environment will be either new or renovated in the next 30 years and if we 1) reduce demand by using natural light and passive solar, 2) recycle waste heat flows, 3) use energy efficiently with the right appliances and 4) maximize use of clean, renewable energy we could transform this part of the climate change and energy problem. Simultaneously we could hugely cut water demands. Energy production ranks number one as the biggest user of water at 38% of U.S. Consumption. Pair those efficient design changes with composting toilets, rain water catchments and gray water irrigation, and our water demand could almost disappear.

“People should be participants in how our buildings function” says Ed, and the NPRC resoundingly agrees. They’ve earned the pride clearly found in their faces and voices. Ed estimated that $50,000 or more worth of volunteer labor was provided to reclaim old doors, trims and other valuable assets for the building. They are stewards of this building and thus of the environment they exist to protect.

So can this example be replicated? The answer is not only “yes it can,” but it must. From the environmental and economical viewpoint this building saves resources. Because reuse of an old building drastically reduced the demolition and new construction costs which otherwise would have been the standard route, initial expense was 17% less than a conventional building of this type and size, including the solar panel array that supplies half of the building’s energy needs. By the slashed demand on utilities, Ed estimates that within 30 years the building will cost only 65% of a conventional building.

Wow. Euphoric.

J.J. Green, University of Oregon

Day Two – Opinions on Who Gives Us Our Energy: A Jersey Boy’s Perspective

Friday, May 23rd, 2008

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Having something to endure always brings people together, which is why on the morning of our first day on our trip the rain can be credited with the majority of the bonding that has already happened between the nine students and two faculty members accompanying each other on our unique field study in Montana. We were awakened by Steve, the appointed “Morning Czar” of the day who got us all out of the closest things man has come to a synthetic womb – our tents – and up making breakfast and hot drinks. The plan for the day was to bike to a coal fired power plant that morning, come back for lunch, visit an oil refinery, and then return to our Kampsite of America where we would have a discussion, dinner and possibly a soak in the hot tub.

The first hour of our visit to the power plant was spent in a classroom, listening to a presentation by Tom Olson, the plant manager, along with a public relations representative and an engineer. We learned how the plant operated and more specifically the details of operating in accordance with state and federal regulations and what they are doing to address the issue of coal’s impact on pollution and climate change. Occasionally in the presentation the three would include comments about the faults of wind power, citing its inconsistency. In relation to global warming words such as “allegedly” were used. While I might think the contrary, I can see why the people we talked to today might think that. I will use my bike trailer as an analogy.

About a week before coming to Montana to bike across the state, I purchased a trailer to tow all my belongings behind me. It was not cheap, as I invested hard earned cash in the piece of equipment, just like the employees invested a lot of time and effort into their work. Three other students on the trip have trailers, and they all happen to be the same kind, but different from mine in many ways. Theirs have one wheel, a dry bag to load their gear in, and it connects directly to the frame of the bike. Mine has two wheels, a compartment covered with a removable water repellent canvas top, and a hitch to attach it to the bike. In my mind, my trailer is the smarter choice between the two. Even if I went with the other kind, I would think that I had the superior trailer. Why would I choose to admit a bad decision, when all I need to do is deny that the other trailer is better? I am not saying that it was a bad decision to work in a coal fired power plant, but if I did I would never admit that all the time I put in did more bad than good, and I would not be eager to accept a “theory” that global temperatures are rising, causing glaciers to melt and raise sea levels, especially since my house is not under water yet.

Lunchtime blessed us with the opportunity to eat food, and even bask in a bit of sunshine and clear sky that the clouds forgot to cover up. It did not take too long for them to realize their mistake and soon enough we were damp with the familiar drizzle as we were picked up and taken to the Exxon/Mobile oil refinery in a big rumbling bus.

New Jersey is a state that mainly acquired its tainted reputation from the region in front of and around Newark International Airport. Anybody driving on the parkway in that area will see refinery after refinery with their looming tanks of crude oil, gasoline, and diesel fuel. Many people who drive on this section of road just hold their breath and push a little harder on the gas pedal, not once thinking about what it would be like to check it out and meet the people who work at these places. Imagine working at a coal power plant or an oil refinery for twenty plus years, and then all of a sudden facing major scrutiny for the role your industry plays in global warming. Upon talking with some employees, defensiveness became a common theme of the day, but for reasons that should be understood.

day-2-2.JPGI for one cannot say that I don’t take advantage of Jersey’s relatively cheap oil. Without it, transporting my belongings up and down the coast to and from Vermont would become a feat for one with strength comparable to the Incredible Hulk. If I did not use my cell phone and the electricity needed to charge it, to give my friend a message within seconds I would need speed comparable to that of Flash Gordon. What I am trying to say is that the lifestyle that we live is made possible today by the fossil fuels that we burn for energy, and the people who make it happen. To keep that standard of living and not rely on natural gas, oil, and coal, we would all need to be superheroes. Maybe that will happen someday, but until then all we can do is live with what we have available to us but at the same time increase our efforts to live more sustainably, and focus efforts on switching to renewable energy sources.

Overview – Day One

Thursday, May 22nd, 2008

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Today a group of university students began a course called, “Cycle the Rockies: Energy and Climate Change in Montana.” Nine students and their instructors, Nicky Phear and Dave Morris, will spend the next four weeks cycling 650 miles from Billings to Whitefish to study our regional energy choices and the impacts of climate change. The course is run by the Missoula-based Wild Rockies Field Institute for six credits through the University of Montana.

We welcome you to follow along as students write about their educational journey. Traveling by bicycle will give us a unique perspective and an appropriate pace for examining the past, present and future of energy and climate change in the West. We will explore first-hand the landscapes, communities and ecosystems that are already feeling the effects of our changing climate.

Our route begins in eastern Montana at a coal-fired power plant and an oil refinery in the industrial core of Billings. Then we will pedal north and west through grasslands and island mountain ranges of central Montana, visiting energy-efficient buildings and production sites for biofuels, wind, solar, geothermal and hydroelectric power. After meetings with energy and climate policy experts at the state capitol in Helena, we will turn north along the impressive Rocky Mountain Front to Glacier National Park. We’ll cycle over the Continental Divide, spending time with climate scientists and park managers in Glacier before ending our journey in Whitefish with a public presentation.

For more information about the course and WRFI, visit our About page. For more information about our students and instructors, please visit our page about the Cyclists.

Thanks for your interest!

Dave Morris and Nicky Phear, Course Instructors